Iceland - Skogafoss but not as we know it (without tourists)

The word I’d use to describe the accommodation is basic, which is surprising for a place for over £200 per night. The towels has that ‘I’ve not been dried properly and smell faousty’ smell. Reyka had another long nap so we didn’t leave until 11am, so only had 30 mins to whizz around the island in the sunshine. There are still gale force winds so we decided to not go to the windiest place in Europe. Instead, we visited the elephant rock and the first settlement house.

The ferry back to the mainland was rocky. A family next to us had their children throwing up. Not pleasant. Reyka just wanted to walk around.

We drove to Skogafoss, which is much busier than our previous visits. Reyka loved watching the waterfall. After Vik, the cars got fewer and fewer. Tonight we are staying in Klausterhof guesthouse in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. It very much has the feel of a hostel, but like a hotel inside. I do love the tradition of keeping shoes outside the rooms and each room is given a shoe rack. A picnic in the room for dinner and then bed by 8pm.

Overnight - Hotel Klausturvegur, Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Iceland - The Westman Islands

Our last Hotgel Rangá breakfast of this trip, so I went big with two waffles. Oh how I will miss the breakfast. Hotel breakfasts are by far my most favourite thing. One last very long jacuzzi in the Antarctica room and alas it was time to say goodbye to Hotel Rangá. But like we say every time we visit, we will be back.

We drove to the ferry point to the Westman Islands. In 5 trips to Iceland, it’s amazing that we have never visited. We drove onto the ferry and found a seat for the 30 minute crossing. Trouble was, the wind has really picked up so it was a rather choppy crossing. Reyka was flirting with everyone around her, as always.

The island is amazing, much steeper than I had in mind and much greener. The islands were formed from volcano’s, the most recent was just in the 60’s. Most of the sights can be seen on foot but with Reyka, it’s easier to drive. Our first stop was the sea life centre which has just had the arrival of two beluga whales from an entertainment park in China. They were captured in Russia when they were young, and performed tricks to audiences in Shanghai. When Merlin Entertainment took over the park, they decided that they two female whales should be in a sanctuary. They were driven by tuck, flown on a plane for hours, on another truck, then on the ferry, and then arrived in their new home (just a month ago). The times are restricted when you can visit them and say hello through a viewing window. We met Harry, their trainer. He is from the West of Scotland and I loved talking to him about his job. They are currently being acclimatised to go into the Bay which has been especially adapted to them, so they feel they are in the wild but still protected.

The new Sea Life centre is home to the puffin hospital where pufflings who are attracted to the city lights are brought here and then released. The birds who are covered in oil or grease are cleaned and released again. We saw starfish, crabs, cod and lots of Icelandic sea life. Reyka absolutely loved it and belly laughed every time she saw the puffin swim by the window.

Back in the car, our next stop was the volcano museum. A super techy museum with a brilliant audio guide tour. The museum is built around a house that was buried in a recent eruption when the whole island was evacuated. It’s called the Pompeii of the North because everything was left in tact and preserved under ash.

By this time, Reyka needed sleep so we drove by the windiest place in Europe, the islands oldest house, we saw Elephant rock and then found our apartment for the night. Gone are the days of shared bathrooms and hostels. Our priorities are now a microwave for sterilising the milk bottles and a washing machine.

Overnight - Guesthouse Arny apartment, Westman Islands

Iceland - Horse World and Hotel Ranga

The benefit of having a tiny person with us, is that we wake up at 5am most days. This might be the only time I say that sentence. However, Iceland is now super busy compared to our first visit in 2010. So, we decided to go back to the waterfall where we had our wedding pictures taken, and take some with Reyka for her special day - her first birthday.

It definitely wasn’t as cold as the wedding where I was turning blue in the cold. We took lots of pictures. Reyka was fascinated by the cascading water. It’s changed so much. There is now a parking fee, the car park was full of camper vans with people sleeping inside, and the grass is roped off.

Back to Hotel Rangá for the best breakfast in the world. The selection is Devine. Including champagne for breakfast for a Buck’s Fizz. Reyka opened her card and one gift that we brought (from Nana and Grampa). We then followed a new tradition of this holiday and had a long morning nap.

We had lunch at the hotel and the chef brought out Reyka’s special Skyr cake, which was a replica of the cake we had at the wedding. A ‘1’ candle was in the top which we blew out. Reyka looked confused by it.

Reyka’s gift from Nanny and Grandad was a trip to the local horse farm to learn about Icelandic Horses and to sit on one and go around the arena. It was phenomenal. Our guide was so lovely and knew so much about them. They are much shorter than I thought, with thick hair and so laid back. Reyka then got to ride Solveig but alas it was a little too high and she cried, so instead we walked Solveig around the arena. I learnt so much. For example, Icelandic Horses can only have Icelandic names, they have 5 gaits and are horses not pony’s. The tour ended with a coffee and hot chocolate. Amazing tour and would love to revisit.

Back at hotel Rangá for a long dip in the hot tub, then a long jacuzzi in the room, dinner and skyr cake again. The food a Hotel Rangá is by far the best meals I’ve ever had in my life.
The evening was spent listening to my audio book, drinking hot chocolate, on our balcony overlooking the fields and the river. Absolute perfection.

Overnight - Hotel Rangá

Iceland - Birthday eve

I could get used to this type of holiday. After breakfast, Reyka needed a nap, so we did the same. I love that the check out time for most places in Iceland is 11am. We drove to a petting zoo close to Hella. It wasn’t extensive and to be honest, we found it a little strange. We could hold the kittens and rabbits but they were in cages so we got a bit confused as to whether we just let them out? Sadly Reyka fell head first on the gravel, so we made a sharp exit because her head was bleeding.

We made a quick stop in Selfoss for some new shoes for Reyka because I’m convinced it’s the shoes fault. I also forgot to bring her hat to Iceland and found one in the shop. Silly me didn’t look at the price and went and paid £40 for a warm hat for a baby! Lesson learned.

On we drove to Hotel Rangá, the place where Ali proposed, where we were married and where we went for our first anniversary. This was our 6th visit. We arrived super early at 3pm and was going to drop the bags and go visiting. However, they told us that because it’s Reyka’s birthday, they would like to upgrade us to the Antarctica suite! It’s the best room in the hotel, where we stayed at the wedding, and so us! I cried when the receptionist told us!

When we got into the room, I was jumping up and down. There was lots of space for Reyka to explore, I could have multiple jacuzzi’s in the room and use our own nespresso maker! The thing about HOtel Rangá is all of the little touches. For example, roses in the room, a card wishing Reyka happy birthday, the owner speaking to us over dinner. In fact, he had just arrived and made a bee line for us. We’ve spoken to him during every stay and he remembers our wedding. Hotel Rangá feels so homely, it’s like we have never been away.

Overnight - Hotel Rangá

Iceland - Reyka's first flight

The day started in a slightly unexpected way - an emergency trip to the vets for sailor at 5am. So our first trip with a baby was starting off an hour later than planned. Time was definitely against us today because we then got stuck in a traffic jam at Heathrow, only to find out that we were in the wrong queue and could have just whizzed past the traffic.

A shuttle bus from the car park to the terminal. Years gone by, Ali and I didn’t bother with a trolley, we would just carry out luggage but gosh times have changed. We desperately needed a trolley for the amount of luggage we are taking, even though Ali and I only have a few changes of clothes each.

Going through security, I was asked to close the pram and put it through the X-ray machine. No chance, it’s an all terrain pram. So, instead it was swabbed and the baby milk put in a different scanning machine to check it wasn’t an explosive.

I had ordered our baby milk to be picked up at Boots in the departure lounge instead of packing it in our bulging suitcases. It worked like a breeze and the baby milk was waiting for us.

We arrived at the plaza lounge (£40 per person) and I had high hopes for a lovely relaxing time. The food was tepid and we left thinking it just wasn’t worth the money which was a shame. Reyka enjoyed wandering around the people sat in the arm chairs, but she could have done that in the main departures lounge.

No walk to the gate, it was directly opposite departures. We by passed the queue to get on first and hoped our buggy would make it to Iceland. It was Reyka’s first flight and you would have thought she was just sat in the car. She hardly noticed a thing. She loved the entertainment in the back of the seats and was giggling to Finding Dory.

We booked our car with the company we have used for every trip to Iceland. A Ford Kuga. A short 10 min drive to Motel Arctic Wind. We have a little studio with private bathroom.The cot was all set up when we arrived and the host was so friendly and welcoming. We have access to a well equipped kitchen. I went out for provisions while Reyka wrecked the room and emptied our suitcases all over the room and decided that her new favourite thing is the toilet brush.
Dinner, shower, bottle and bed.

Overnight - Motel Arctic Wind, Vogar