Iceland - Time to go home...for now

Time to venture home and for the first time, we set an alarm to wake up. Eve though our plane doesn’t leave until 1pm and the airport is only 40 minutes away, travelling with a toddler has taught us to double the amount of time it would normally take us to do anything. We drove to the airport and i was apprehensive. The automated system had seated Ali in an emergency exit seat with extra leg room (normally very nice because it’s a seat you have to pay extra for), and me in the back of the plane. The idea of sitting apart was awful. Thankfully, there was a family desk at IcelandAir check in and the lovely person found us seats together. Relax!

Reyka walked most of the way to the plane, pushing her own pram. How times have changed already. I love that families board at the same time as business class. Alas sleep wasn’t on the cards for Reyka on the way home, she only had a 30 minute nap and spent the rest of the time wanting to be entertained. Thank goodness for the TV screens, Finding Dory and Dora the Explorer.

Back in the UK, we had to make the painful journey home. It’s always so much easier to go on holiday than to get home. However, we had the most beautiful rainbow while getting the car, so all was fine. Back home to our own bed, our doggies and not packing and unpacking everyday. A wonderful birthday trip to Iceland. It won’t be long before we are back again.

Overnight - Home

Iceland - an open air museum and a swim

Bit of a late stat today. Reyka’s routine is completely out the window and the morning nap is getting later and later. We first went to Árbær open air museum which is out of town. It’s a quaint museum with all of the staff dressed in character dress. We wandered around the old houses such as the church with beams about 3 inches shorter that me. I couldn’t imagine walking down the aisle in that church, I’d be ducking every other step. Reyka loved the room full of old toys that she could play with. She was very keen on an old fashioned dolls pram. Ali and I couldn’t resist the park. We played on the swings and sea saw which I’ve not been on for years. We had coffee and strawberry cake in the cafe and were surrounded by chickens looking for us for drop crumbs.

We then visited Laugardalslaug, a large outdoor swimming pool which was opened in the 60’s. It wasn’t my favourite. It has a huge racing pool with big viewing stand, a kids pool, slides, hot pots. What really put us off was the mould on the toys in the pool and you couldn’t see the side of the pool because of the mould on the poolside. Even the children’s pool was a little chilly so we spent most of the time in the shallow hotpot. We couldn’t have been there more than 30 minutes. It took us longer to get ready. The changing rooms even had guards in the showers to make sure people showered naked!

Overnight - Stay Bolholt apartments

Iceland - a rainbowy day

Gosh Reyka is loving the two steps in the apartment. Ali has now taken to sitting on the step constantly to get it up and down safely. Reyka decided that a nap was over rated, so we decided to walk 25 minutes into town instead of taking the car. By the time we got to Halgrimskirkja, Reyka was fast sleep so missed it.

Reykjavík Pride started yesterday so I planned a mini rainbow tour today. We started by the rainbow street which was painted by the public yesterday. Even the road signs have changed their font into rainbow colours.

Our lunch stop was at the famous hot dog stall called Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur where I ordered two hot dogs with the works - a warm, steamed bun topped with raw white onions and crispy fried onions, ketchup, sweet brown mustard called pylsusinnep, and remoulade, a sauce made with mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs. Reyka loved it! We were still hungry so I ordered so more to fill us up.

We had a quick stop in the Harpa centre for Reyka to stretch her legs and continued on our rainbow tour to a cafe recommended by the Reykjavik pride programme. Full of rainbows and the most amazing coffee and chocolate cake. We stopped at the Pride Store in City Hall and bought Reyka a rainbow backpack, then took the long walk back to the apartment. 13000 steps in just the walk in, walk around and walk back. Feeling very rainbowy now.

Overnight - Stay Bolholt apartments

Iceland - Starting the day with a Spa

Surprisingly, our day started at 8am. This never ever happens since Reyka was born. So all naps were completely out the window. Instead, Reyka and I joined Ali at Laugarvatn Fontana. It’s amazing for little ones. One pool is 32 degrees and the other 34 - perfect. The depth is great for Reyka, she can walk along the floor in her rubber ring. We then had the buffet lunch which was fab. Soup, salad, meat, fish, veg, cake, coffee and fruit.

A short drive to Reykjavik and we arrived at our apartment for the next 3 nights. It’s a little out of town but has everything we need. We walked to the local supermarket (one of Reyka’s favourite things to do). We bought things expecting our studio apartment to have an oven. However, on return we found out that we only had a microwave so I had to improvise. Microwave pizza and garlic bread it was.

Overnight - Stay Bolholt apartments

Iceland - Rainbows and a spa evening

We started our day with a surprise, we are staying in the town which features on the front of the Lonely Planet guide. So we had a quick stop to take a picture of the book and the local church. We then said goodbye to the mountains and retraced our steps, passing Hotel Rangá.

We stopped in Hella to meet Hugrun and Kristinn. Hugrun was our wedding planner from 2012 and we’ve kept in touch. Kristinn was burned 21 days after Reyka. It was amazing to see the to of them running around, causing mischief and playing with the blinds. Reyka was giggling so much as she chased him.

Onwards to Gulfoss and Geysir. Ali and I have visited both places many times but Reyka hasn’t. Something we are noticing on this trip is the number of camper vans and the number of hitch hikers. They are everywhere!

To our surprise, we had to wake Reyka from her nap. It was worth it. Blue skies meant that Gulfoss had a rainbow on it. It was spectacular. We visited Geysir for two spirts of Stokkur which Reyka looked at with confusion more than an anything.

A short drive to Laugarvatn for our overnight stay in Bjork Guesthouse. When I contacted Laugarvatn Fontana they said it wasn’t for babies. So, I booklet for the evening and Ali for the morning. However, when I got there I discovered they have two pools which are perfect for little ones. So, I had a great couple of hours in he hot pots, in the sauna and steam room. The view is spectacular over the lake. What a way to end a great sunny day.

Overnight - Björk Guesthouse, Laugarvatn

Iceland - Reyka destruction at the dinner buffet

If our fellow guests slept through the Reyka alarm clock, I’d be very very shocked. She was getting her own back for the noise they made the night before. The guesthouse was our one and only shared bathroom on this visit (shared facilities is very common in Iceland). As there were only two rooms, it wasn’t too bad, especially because we never leave an accommodation until 11am.

We started the day with another swim, this time at Hofn swimming pool. It was great as it was just Reyka’s height, so she could push herself around the pool in her ring. She loves to make friends and was a magnet to all humans of any age.

As we left the swimming pool, I reprogrammed the map on my phone. To my surprise it said I needed to re-route to make the 1.5 hour journey back to the glacial lagoon. Instead, we need to drive 16 hours around the whole island! Thankfully we ignored it and drove towards the closed road (due to a car accident). Luckily the road was opened again minutes before we arrived.

The scenery has changed again, the glaciers are back. We had a walk on Diamond beach and yet again Reyka loved eating the black sand.

Our final stop was in Vik, a very long drive day. We haven’t eaten very well this holiday so opted for the dinner buffet. It’s a great way to test Reyka on lots of different foods. However, you should have seen the destruction she made on the floor.

While Ali put Reyka to bed, I soaked in the hot pot for over an hour and got lost in my thoughts.

Overnight - Hotel Katla, Vik

Iceland - A very very long drive

Wow, what a wonderful drive through the valley of waterfalls to Seydisfjordur. We were sad to leave the apartment but onwards. We have visited the fjord before and stayed overnight, but since then, they have painted a rainbow road towards the church so I wanted Reyka to see it. We drove over the infamous mountain pass which i remember was amazing last time, but alas, all we could see was mist today.

We had a walk around the town, walked along the rainbow road, had coffee and date cake and then had to start our long drive to our overnight stop, back in the land of the glaciers.

Overnight - Dilksnes Guesthouse, Hofn

Iceland - A very short vist to the Icelandic Wartime Museum

Gosh I could imagine living in this apartment. It’s so stylish and modern. The roomba robot scares me a bit though. We have to be out by 11am because that’s when the robot starts up. Our beautiful view from the living room has disappeared and is covered in mist. We spent the morning chasing Reyka around the apartment as she amused herself by pulling off all the paper from the toilet roll.

After her morning nap we ventured a few fjords over to Neskaupstaour to the local swimming pool. It’s an outdoor pool with a stunning mountain view. Alas we had to imagine the view because it was covered in the mist. We first ventured into the large pool which was 27 degrees but left when Reyka’s lips started to go blue. The baby pool was perfect at 38 degrees.

Back to the apartment for a lunch stop and then onto our next stop which was on foot - to the Icelandic wartime museum. It was just at the end of the street. We hoped Reyka would sleep but nope, instead she cried and cried and cried. I listened to a bit of the audio guide but then we had to lead. The British occupied Iceland during the Second World War and had a base here. A few of the Nissen huts remain.

Overnight - Air B&B Homelike apartment with sea view, Reyðarfjörður

Iceland - Super remote (perfect)

What a place to stay. Each morning I’ve done the washing up with the most amazing view across the fjord. I don’t mind washing up with a view like that. We are moving on today up the coast. We started the day with another swim in the local pool.

A lunch stop in the local cafe. Something I didn’t know when I booked the apartment was that Djupivogur seems t be a cruise stop. Every day we have seen another cruise ship in the fjord and buses going off, while some wander around the port. It’s quite bizarre to be somewhere so remote but have tourists wandering around. It does mean however that the food options are more catered for tourists, so our options were burgers or pitta sandwiches for lunch.

On we drove to the next stop. 45 minutes north (on the road we travelled yesterday), I suddenly thought that I don’t remember seeing Reyka’s swim nappy and towel in the swim bag. I phoned the swimming pool. We had left it there! So we had to drive 45 minutes back, then 45 minutes back along the road we have driven twice. What Ali doesn’t know is that we are driving back on that road next week!

We stopped at Fáskrúðsfjörður for coffee and waffles and chocolate cake at Cafe Sumarlina. It was divine. We stopped at the village because it was once a base for french fishermen. So the street signs at in French and Icelandic, and the houses display flags of Iceland and France.

A short drive to Reyðarfjörður and our next overnight stop. There is just one word for the accommodation - WOW! It’s stunning. Super modern, has everything we could possibly need and has the most amazing view from the living room. We thought the fjord yesterday was spectacular but this is a notch above. Reyka really enjoyed the projector TV on the wall. Peppa pig is huge!

Overnight - Air B&B Homelike apartment with sea view, Reyðarfjörður

Iceland - Djupivogur, Our favourite swimming pool

Reyka is loving the apartment. There is so much to explore, especially the mineral collection in the living room. Her favourite place has to be the kitchen cupboards. She is loving slamming them and trapping her fingers in the doors. Her favourite activity at the moment is to climb inside the cupboard and then back out again. This has been done so many times that I now pull up a chair to sit by the cupboard.

Our day started to see the Egg art installation on the harbour. It’s really quite drinking. Many eggs displayed along the harbour wall. We then visited the local swimming pool. What I love about Icelandic swimming pools is that the changing rooms are so super clean. You remove your shoes at the entrance and everyone walks around in their socks. The changing rooms are dry instead of covered in water and wet dust and hair clogging up the drains. You also shower before putting on your swimsuit. Genius. The pool was perfect for babies. A shallow children’s pool, with toys, baby rings, arm bands and floats. Reyka was able to just bob along and have an amazing time in the water.

Back to the apartment for lunch and then on to Breiðdalsvík to see the quaint fishing village, the rainbow entrance, the general store for coffee and cake, and a walk along the harbour. When we arrived we also spotted one of those giant outdoor pillows of air. It was mummy Ali’s turn to go on the inflatable. Reyka was belly laughing.

Back to the apartment, dinner, bottle, book and bath.

Overnight - Appartment Bimnes, Djupivogur

Iceland - Eating black sand on Diamond Beach

We started the day with a picnic in the room. Most of our picnics consist of the same thing, pepperoni and cheese sandwiches, crisps and biscuits. After a few of these meals, today we decided that we need more balance in our diet. I went out for a walk around the Kirkjubæjarklaustur while Ali got ready. The sun was shining, i didn’t see another person. It was perfect. I first walked to the waterfall, the church and then a cemetery. The village is on the side of a huge ridge which was really striking in the morning sunshine.

Today was a day of long drives. Our first drive was an hour and a half to get to Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon. We’ve visited before but Reyka hasn’t so we booked for her to go on an amphibious vehicle into the lagoon. The drive to the lagoon was amazing. First were the ice caps, then the glaciers, then the glacial rivers.

The glacial lagoon is a tourist honeypot. We boarded our boat, Reyka had her own little life jacket to wear. We sailed through the numerous ice bergs and ate some of the ice that the guide chipped away from an ice berg.

We drove over to Diamond beach. The stranded ice bergs on the beach were a lot smaller than last time but Reyka enjoyed touching them. But her absolute highlight was the black sand. We sat for a long time on the warm sand, just watching her pick it up and letting it fall through her fingers. She would kick her feet and turn in circles. Then she would eat it. Yum.

Alas, we needed to get to our next apartment for the night. We left the glaciers and volcanoes and headed to the Eastern Fjords, driving along roads with shear drops into the ocean below. This is the Iceland I remember, with very few tourists on the road, nothing but us an the environment.

Tonight we are staying in Apartment Bimness. Oh I was grateful to see the washing machine and drier. We’ve had to economise on the amount of luggage, so the amenities in the apartment already made me rate it as the best place we have stayed so far. The view is phenomenal,. As I wash up, I can see mountains and a Fjord. Perfect.

Overnight - Appartment Bimnes, Djupivogur