Everything we wanted, and so much more

So, my dream holiday has come to an end. Was it everything I had hoped it to be? It was 1000% more. I loved every bit of it and would go back to Antarctica in a flash. South Georgia and Falklands were absolutely stunning and somewhere I could live. One day I hope we come back. The journey home was the norm, taxi to the airport, long wait in the airport, 14 hour flight but thank goodness we had booked the only 2 seats together, a big number of meals that don't correspond to either timezone, tube to the train station and then walk home. After a month away, Sailor and Penny hardly flinched when we returned. Now it's time to save for the next one.

Out of the bubble into the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires

I stayed in bed pondering all of the sleeps we have had on board. The sleeps in the Drake Passage when I did nothing bud sleep. When we were in the hurricane off Deception Island I had to put pillows either side of me as I feared falling out of bed, the boat was so rocky that night. We had a last few hours in our Hurtigruten bubble. The bubble which tells you what to do, and when. No thinking required. Soon, we would be thinking for ourselves, surrounded by people and hustle and bustle and wanting to go back to the bubble.

Luckily we moved our taxi to 9am so we were able to have a leisurely breakfast and casually leave the ship. Many left early, we watched over the balcony and waved to everyone. I had a little tear in my eye, we had all been together for the last 3 weeks. I walked around the ship, said goodbye and thank you for the most amazing trip. Then I discovered that all cabin doors were open, so I took the opportunity to have a nose at every cabin type. Especially the super expensive suites

It was time to go, we went down the gangway to the transfer bus and that was it. Through the cruise terminal, then out into the big wide world. However, a huge ship docked at the same time. It absolutely dwarfed our ship. Unfortaunetly, they were exiting at the same time so we left our tranquil bubble and entered a really noisy and busy taxi area. Back at the Duque hotel which is incredibly small and guess who we saw having breakfast, two Hurtigruten guests. We aren’t entirely out of the bubble.

We spent the morning loving the internet, oh I’ve missed it. We jumped on the metro and went to Cathedral. Buenos Aires is so familiar now, we walk down the street as though we are at home. It’s a Sunday so it meant we could go into Casa Rosada for free. So we did. The English tour group included a coach load of American guests though so all we wanted to do was run away. We did get to see the famous Evita balcony though. Coincidentally we met Jean and Douggie too so went back to Café Tortoni for a spot of lunch and another submarino.

We walked down the longest street market I’ve ever seen in my life. This is how I imagined Buenos Aires, the smell of barbeques, people dancing the tango in the streets etc. The market sold everything you can imagine. A slow walk back, then dinner in our favourite pizzeria, then bed. What a contrasting day, from bubble to hustle and bustle.

Ladies spa day again and baked Antarctica

Why is it that we leave it until the last few days to find a really great group of friends and we invent spa day? We couldn’t miss out on spa day, so this time we went straight after breakfast. Sauna first, then jacquizzi. The trouble was that it’s really humid at the moment, it’s like somebody has just switched the oven on. It’s amazing to think that we started this voyage by having hot tubs in Antarctica, now we were too hot to sit in it! We have met a great group, all fun loving and living life to the max.

The ship is completely covered in moths, butterflies, flies and grasshoppers at this point. A spot of lunch, then a great lecture on polar bears by Helga. We then had a great Climate Change debate, I resisted and only put my opinion across twice. Before we knew it, it was time for Captain’s cocktails. We raised a glass to Sophia Rosser, born today. After the speeches it was auction time. Three items were up for grabs, the flag from the ship that was signed by the expedition team and lists the places we have visited. An albatross statue and the ships map from the voyage. I really fancied the flag and thought I would start at £10 and maybe go up to £50 max. I had a bit of a shock when the opening bit was £250! In the end the flag went for £2000! All the money went to the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

Our final dinner and a Baked Antarctica, which was presented to us with fireworks. We watched a gorgeous sunset to end the trip of a lifetime.

Bridge visit and Ladies Spa Day

I managed to capture the best time of day, 6am on the observation deck, when nobody is around. It’s just me and the view. I’ve realised that I’m very dependent on the internet, I miss it. I only had 20 minutes left of internet usage and the connection is so slow that I only managed to post a few blog posts today. I look forward to having 24/7 internet again. Our day started with a Bridge Tour with the Captain. It was really interesting, everything is electronic. The maps are drawn and then loaded into the navigation system, then the boat just follows the computer. One person was on lookout due to fog. We got to walk around the bridge, take photographs etc. The Captain told us that the weather that prevented us landing on Deception Island was hurricane force, over 30 meters per second winds. We felt it.

This morning we completed the feedback questionnaire, the age brackets started from 40! Everyone else was categorised as under 40. We felt rather young and spritely without an age bracket on the form.

The first lecture was titled ‘Animals what we have seen’. The count so far:

• Crabeater seal
• Fur seal
• Leopard seal
• Elephant seal
• Humpback whales
• Fin Whales
• Adelie penguins
• Gentoo penguins
• King penguins
• Chinstrap penguins
• Rockhopper penguins
• Magellenic penguins
• Black browed albatross
• Wandering albatross
• Cape petrels
• Giant petrels
• Snowy Sheathbill
• Dolphin
• Sea Lion
• Jellyfish
• Striated Caracara
• Orca
• Magellenic Oystercatcher
• Flightless Steamer duck
• Upland goose
• Ruddy headed goose
• Kelp goose
• Dolphin Gull
• Yellow billed teal
• Kelp gull
• Antarctic tern
• Rock shag
• Antarctic petrel
• Skua

Today we also invented Ladies Spa Day. We met in the sauna with our friends, then went for a Jacuzzi, the tea and sandwiches in the observation deck. It was great, and a lovely way to spend a sea day. A lecture on penguins and humans and then time for dinner again. 

Heading North

Today we head North and thoughts drift to being at home. A morning of lectures and video editing and sorting photographs. Today’s lectures were on albatross and fossils in Antarctica. Meal times keep us on a schedule but we are never hungry. The afternoon was spent with more editing and waffle day. Mid afternoon we had waffles while sitting in the observation deck. Then we had a real highlight, a cabin crawl. We visited our cabin, Melissa’s, Wendy and Roger’s suite. We had bubbly and nibbles while chatting, I loved it and wish we did this every night. The weather is really warming by the minute and the sunsets getting more and more spectacular.

Albatross and Rockhoppers living in perfect harmony

I woke up between four and five am, I really didn’t want to miss a single thing. I just couldn’t believe we were camping on the Falkland Islands, saw the most amazing sky last night and I’m loving these Islands more and more by the hour. The birds started to wake, I just wish I could distinguish between all of the songs. There were so many! Some sound like donkeys, some like springs, some like cows…. The sunrise was spectacular. We sat on the sofa in silence, just watching and listening. Elizabeth went swimming in the water, we resisted. Before we knew it, it was time to take the tents down, pack up and get back to the landing site for our polar circle ride back. What an amazing experience. 

A very quick turnaround on boat, I had 3 cups of coffee to keep me going because in an hour we were arriving at West Point. Luckily we were the last off the ship this time so we had a little time to shower, change and let the caffeine kick in. We landed on West Point, walked a couple of miles over to the cliffs on the other side. However, you have to picture how Ali and I were walking. After the Stanley walk back to the ship, then up the hill on Saunders Island, then the speed walk on Carcass Island, now walking uphill on West Point…our legs were not loving it. My feet are really blistered so we took a really slow walk to the cliffs. 

However, it was worth it. The cliffs are home to an enormous population of Black Browed Albatross and Rockhopper penguins. We were less than a meter away from them. We were all hidden in the tussock grass but they didn’t seem to mind our presence. The huge chicks were on the nests, the Rockhoppers in between. They live in perfect harmony. The Rockhoppers actually keep the skuas away from the albatross chicks. We stood there for over an hour watching the parents soar and crash land, watching them feed their chicks and watching the Rockhoppers hopping. What an experience. 

At this point my legs and feet were gone, so when I was asked if I wanted to take a lift back in the Land Rover, I jumped at the chance. Regardless of legs and feet, I really wanted to go in the Land Rover on the rough terrain. It was bumpy bumpy and I loved it. We were dropped at the residents house for tea and cake, then it was time to get back on the ship and our last polar circle ride. Back on board I stood at the back of the ship looking at the island. I had a tear in my eye, this was our last visit on this trip and I couldn’t have asked for more. When we booked this, I knew I would love it, but it was a 1000% more than I thought.

Watching a moon rise while camping

Team Saunders will be pleased to know that today we visited their Island! In the morning we visited Saunders Island, home of multiple types of penguin. We walked part way up the hill, saw Gentoo, King, Magellenic and Rockhopper penguins. The Rockhoppers are so cute and are true to their name, they literally hop up cliff faces. We were sat at the top of the cliff watching them, with their yellow tufts on their heads. On the way up, we had to be careful where we tread as Magellenic penguins use burrows to nest, so we got to see them in bed, and hoped not to fall through their roof. The view from the hill was fantastic, Falklands has the most amazing beaches I’ve ever seen. 

The afternoon was spent at Carcass Island, named after HMS Carcass which patrolled here, rather than anything animal related. We were the first off the ship, and the first boat to land, which was handy because we were on a mission. Leopard beach was 5 miles away and we only had a couple of hours to get there and back. The route march started, we had to keep a fast speed, interrupted by walking through peat bogs, up hills, down hills, through the Diddle-dee. We got 85% there and ran out of time, we could see the beach but couldn’t descend to get there and back for camping. Luckily we found an Tomas in the expedition team who asked for a little extra time for us to get back. Phew! 

We were one of the first on the beach and what a stunning place, pure white sand, crystal clear waters. Hundreds of Magellenic penguins in the colony. A sea lion was in the surf hunting penguins which were coming in on rafts. Thank goodness we got to the final point. There was just the tricky part of getting back. By this time, my soggy feet were blistered and facing a 2.5 mile march back. We were on a mission, head down and just go. It’s by far the fastest I’ve ever walked and my feet were screaming at me. We got back 30 minutes late but no matter, we had just enough time to put up our tent on a mound overlooking the bay, get back on the ship for food and shower, then on with the thermals to get back to the Island. 

Tonight we were lucky enough to win places to camp overnight on the Island. There are four English speakers, myself and Ali, Melissa from the US and Elizabeth from Danish. To say we were excited about camping would be an understatement. From the boat that took us to the island, to the boat that brought us back, we were brimming full of happiness. We were given sleeping bags and thermarest so we set up home and then sat on our sofa, aka the grass in front of our tents. We were joined by the expedition team and we watched a wonderful sunset. 

The residents of the Island invited us into their house for some tea and cakes. We kindly accepted and had a fabulous time sitting with American visitors and the expedition team. It was fantastic to speak off the ship, without the hustle and bustle of getting on/ off boats etc. I could have spent hours chatting and eating scones with jam and cream. However, we needed to get to bed. 

As we got to our camp, our mouths dropped. We looked up and saw the most amazing night sky. I’ve never been anywhere so dark as it was. As such, we could clearly see the Southern Cross and the Milky Way. I had no idea there were so many starts in the sky! Then we saw the moon rise, I’ve never seen the moon rise before, it was bright orange and glowing. We all led on the sofa, looking up and were silent. None of us could believe what we were seeing. The shooting stars were an added bonus. Melissa and Elizabeth decided to sleep under the stars so took their mats and four season sleeping bags outside.

Ali and I slept in the tent. What I didn’t expect was to be absolutely boiling in the night. The sleeping bags go down to minus 30 and today we had a daytime temperature of +13 degrees. The kit provided was fantastic. The trouble was, I didn’t want to sleep and miss anything.

Super British Stanley has blown me away

Oh I love the Falklands so much! We were ready to get off the ship, at breakfast everyone was buzzing at the thought of going on land. Ali went on the Port Stanley Highlights tour and was first to get off the ship. It’s quite a novelty to get on the walkway instead of the polar circle boat. Ali went off on her bus tour, then I took the bus transfer into the centre of Stanley. Then we walked and walked. It’s so small that you can just walk along one street and see all of the major sights. I have never been somewhere so British! More British than Britain. Everyone drives a Land Rover or a Range Rover, you don’t see a single car.

We started with Jubilee Villa’s, then the church where I found the kneeler for the Guides. Of course, travelling Brownie had her picture next to it. Then in front of the church is the whale bones, the classic postcard of Stanley. Further on was the Post Office, Town Hall, Police, Penguin News, Governors House, memorial to the Royal Marines, memorial to the 1914 war and a highlight, the mast from the S.S Great Britain. My dad recounts the story of the S.S Great Britain coming home to Bristol, it was floated all the way back from Stanley. Later in the day I told one of the Islanders about this and she was amazed that it is now such an attraction. Following the big sights, we then took to the back streets, passing Thatcher Drive and a statue to Margaret. One of the houses has a Union Jack roof. A quick stop in the gift shop for lots of Union Jack goodies. 

It was time for my excursion, a Scenic Air Tour. Oh my gosh, it was fantastic. It’s a tiny six seater aeroplane, used to transport people and things between the islands. The pilot Drew gave us a pre briefing about the journey, then we were tucked in. We flew over the ship and Stanley. It really showed how small Stanley is, easily walkable. Everywhere outside Stanley is called Camp, we flew very low over the wilderness, which doesn’t have any trees. Nobody can tread a foot on this land, it is full of landmines. I was buzzing at this point, I love flying in small aircraft. Looking down we could see lots of holes in the ground, Drew told us why there are so many, they are holes caused by bombs in the 1982 war! So much of this gorgeous land can’t be walked upon. We saw gloriously sunny white sand beaches, home to wildlife only as they are full of mines. We saw whales, seals, Magellenic penguins, lots of bird life and rocky spurs. I absolutely loved the scenic air flight and it was quite a few hours after that I stopped shaking with adrenaline. 

Following the flight we had a transfer back to Stanley as the airport is just out of town at Stanley Airport, the domestic one. The driver was very informative and stopped on the way back to show us the wreck of the Lady Elizabeth. She told us about the health system, they have free prescriptions and all health care is free. If they can’t be treated in Falklands, they are flown to Santiago or the UK. For university, anyone can go, they are paid to study in the UK, all expenses paid, including three trips back home each year! 

Back in Stanley, it was surprisingly easy to find Ali, she was photographing a goose. We had a quick drink in the Globe Tavern before talking a slow walk back to the ship. On the way back we stopped at the cemetery and the 1982 memorial wood. A tree was planted for every British life lost in the Falklands war, it’s an incredible place. We walked through the wood, back along the shore and back on board the ship. 

I can’t speak highly enough of Stanley, I just wish we had a couple of weeks there. I absolutely loved it and can’t wait for the next couple of days exploring more of the Falklands.